Edelrid OHM..... update 2

Further update on our first article about the OHM:

So this evening we went a bit further with the belayer climber weights. I was on belay using the ohm with a 110 lb belayer. So we were basically at the Ohm's "limits".
It took my belayer a few falls to recalibate and get accustomed to my weight. We employed the 1 meter x 1meter positioning and I was stilling pulling her in towards the draw, however she mananged pretty well. We added a bit more angle and distance and that helped her tremendously. We kept the fall distance to a minimum of basically 3 feet as I was a little uncomfortable at the much difference in weight.

Unfortunetly I smoked my ankle on a slab fall lol, I didnt deck, caught my heel on a hold during the fall as I was coming back in to the wall. Hey...thats climbing/ should I say falling :). So my portion of getting things dialed in are now suspend for a bit. 

So...we took our 110lb belayer and put my wife in as the climber. What a learning experience that was for all. With approximately 20-25 lbs...my wife was experiencing some hard catches..(1M x 1M belayer distance.)

So we adjusted the distance to basically 0 angle, 1/2 meter out from the wall. Still a bit hard catch, but better.

Final adjustment....same distance from wall however our belayer kept her rope feeding hand very close to the wall and added a but more slack to the system. The fall came, a small jump and super soft catch.

What we are finding, is that you can actually change the point of engagement with the ohm based on belayer position.
So the belayer has the ability to either have the OHM engage sooner or later based on thier position relative to the OHM placement. (Hope this makes sense)

This is so much fun.....other than a smoked ankle lol.

Oh, and before I smoked my ankle, my wife re calibrated her belay positioning for me...1 M out x 1/2m over and she had a very easy time catching me. She literally got pulled towards the wall about 1 foot. As the climber it was a bit of a hard catch, but I didn't get close to the ground and my wife was in full control of the catch and not along for the ride.

Hope this helps. Cheers.

Leave a comment

Please note, comments must be approved before they are published